Today I want to get to the Laghi Gemelli (Twin Lakes), undoubtedly one of the most well-known hiking destinations in the Orobie. The classic trail would suggest starting from Carona (in Upper Bremabana Valley) and in about 3:00 of ascent reaching the large body of water, the huge dam and the refuge of the same name.

Here you can find the video of the climb from Carona: Rifugio Laghi GEMELLI from Carona (Brembana Valley) - Photographic Output [ X-T3 4K ] - YouTube

The beauty of this trail is undoubtedly the possibility of encountering several lakes on the way up, but the steep initial section immersed in the woods I've always found a bit boring. So today we will attempt the ascent along a completely different route: we will start from the Baite di Mezzeno locality (Roncobello) and in about 1:30 we will reach the passo di Mezzeno, from there a long descent will take us to the shores of the lake and then to the refuge. The return, on the other hand, involves crossing the entire lake, climbing to another pass and then taking the outward trail again.

The trail is not particularly challenging, but the constant climb and some somewhat steep sections do not make it suitable for just anyone. On the other hand, the view from the Mezzeno Pass should be truly spectacular, allowing us to embrace with our eyes the entirety of the lake.

We just have to get started!

Summary: Excursion to Laghi Gemelli from the Mezzeno Huts

Dati tecnici – Sentiero Laghi Gemelli da Baite di Mezzeno

How to get to the parking lot at the Mezzeno Huts

The starting point for this hike is the small dirt parking lot located at Baite di Mezzeno, at the end of a narrow paved road that begins to climb just after the village of Roncobello.

The road is chargeable and just after the village you will find a little machine to buy a daily ticket of the cost of 2€. The machine is approximately at this location (https://goo.gl/maps/7P86MsMtbrprj4g57) in any case it is really hard to miss it.

Once you have paid the ticket you have to continue on the road for another 4 km or so, until you reach the point where the asphalt ends and gives way to a small parking lot on a dirt surface (30 parking spots maximum). The road is well maintained and always asphalted, although in certain sections it is pretty narrow, so it is necessary to proceed with care and, in case of an intersection with a vehicle going downhill in the opposite direction, it will be necessary to stop in a lay-by or a widening of the road in order to be able to pass in two.

Parking Baite di Mezzeno: https://goo.gl/maps/no8t49WS15JVNEFC9

Unfortunately, today we have no way to leave very early (which I recommend) and when we arrive the parking lot is completely full. Lots of cars have also stopped on the side of the roadway or in one of the numerous lay-bys. I did not find any particular signs forbidding parking in this way, in fact I really think that given the few available spaces it is absolutely permissible to leave the car along the road (obviously being careful to still allow other vehicles to pass).

We therefore reverse and leave our car in the first free lay-by we find. Being Sunday today there are really a lot of people so we have to go back several hundred meters, but eventually we find a place.

Maps: Hike to Laghi Gemelli

Mappa: Trekking ai laghi Gemelli

Start of the CAI 215 trail in the direction of Laghi Gemelli

Putting on our boots and packing our backpack we start climbing up the road and in about ten minutes we find ourselves in the parking lot. Here there is also a small stand selling a few snacks and drinks https://goo.gl/maps/wKETFDAHsDnw5CnB9

The trail is completely lacking in water sources, at least until we reach the refuge, so equip yourself accordingly, especially during the hottest times of the year.

The CAI 215 trail begins a few steps from the parking lot and is clearly marked by a series of very obvious signs. Consulting the signs, I also realize that from this location it is possible to reach Branchino Lake (Excursion to BRANCHINO Lake and to the top of Mt. GLASS - YouTube) I did not think we were so close to Arera Peak and Branchino Lake. I immediately add this note to my list of trails to do and give start to today's hike.

The trail does not begin gently and the climb is almost immediately quite steep and steady, after all, we have to travel about 750 m of elevation gain in just under an hour and a half. Despite the low initial elevation, the complete absence of trees allows us to admire the beautiful view around us right away:

• in front of us we can distinctly see the Eastern and Western Mezzeno Peak,
• sulla nostra destra il Monte delle Galline,
• behind us, on the other hand, are the soft grassy peaks of Corno Branchino and Monte Vindiolo, from which, as we gain meters of elevation gain, the beautiful rocky massif of Pizzo Arera begins to emerge.

Ben presto il sentiero svolta a sinistra e ci porta all’ombra di radi alberi, risalendo la sinistra orografica di un torrente praticamente secco.

Beware because on the other side of the stream an alternate trail is clearly evident that is not currently considered viable. There are a couple of signposts indicating not to take that trail and digital maps such as Mapy.cz (Review Mapy.cz - The Best App for Hiking (stefanopoma.it)) clearly mark that the trail is interdicted. With all this information it should be impossible to be wrong, but pay attention anyway

Coming out of the trees we return to climb steeply through wide grasslands, here the CAI 232 veers to the right, where a sign clearly marks the Mezzeno Pass and the Laghi Gemelli. We then slowly ascend this fairly monotonous section, following a well-trodden track that keeps zig-zagging to ease the steep climb a bit.

After about ten minutes we reach a false plain from which the view northward opens up to perfection and it is finally evident, on the mountains in front of us, the point where the Mezzeno Pass is located (from this position it still seems to be definitely far away). Stretching our eyes a bit, it is also possible to catch a few glimpses of the trail that, after passing the grassy area and a couple of huts, begins to climb steeply up the rocky side of the mountain until it touches the pass.

Also truly noteworthy is the view in the southeast position, which finally allows you to admire a good section of Pizzo Arera (indeed it is very close!). I know this view will only get better as we continue, but I can't resist pulling out my camera and taking a shot from this position too.

Baita delle Foppe e Baita della Croce

We now continue on the only flat section until we reach a cottage called the Baita delle Foppe, from here a very short climb leads us to a wide grassy plateau where the Baita delle Croce (1,884m) stands. The entire area is used for grazing and at the time of our passage the trail is literally invaded by a large herd of sheep and several sheepdogs.

We therefore continue a little slowly, partly because we do not want to frighten the animals, but mainly because the bare, rocky landscape around us is becoming more and more spectacular. In front of us we can distinctly see the pass cross, the fleeting trail zig-zagging up between the rock steps and the soft peaks that completely surround us; turning back, on the other hand, we can admire what is probably the best view of the entire hike seen on Pizzo Arera.

In addition to a few photos I also leave you with a 3D view of the area that should help you get an idea of the beauty of this view: 45.97543°N, 9.80252°E - PeakFinder

From this point on, the hardest section of the entire hike begins. Past the depression where the hut stands, the trail heads straight for the pass, climbing up the rocky side of the mountain and tackling most of the level with wide natural steps. This is nothing overly technical, but you still have to pay a little attention to where you rest your feet and, if necessary, help yourself with your hands along the steeper sections. In short however we gain several tens of meters of elevation gain and soon we are near the small metal cross that marks the arrival at the Mezzeno Pass (2,142m).

Mezzeno Pass

At the pass we stop for a few minutes to catch our breath and in the process wander along the rocky terrain of this area, looking for some photo spots. Unfortunately the Laghi Gemelli are not yet visible from this location, but by now we are really very close to the elevated viewpoint I was looking for.

Da qui in compenso si ha una bella vista sul Pizzo Farno, sul monte del Becco e sul monte Spondone. Siamo saliti fin quassù per vedere il lago però, quindi riprendiamo rapidamente il cammino iniziando la discesa lungo il sentiero CAI 215.

After just a handful of minutes, among the sparse clumps of grass, we begin to trace the blue shimmer of the lake. Continuing to descend we find ourselves on a small natural rocky balcony, set in a position completely free of any natural obstacles: from here at last the Twin Lakes are perfectly admirable in their entirety!

The water is a deep blue and the few beams of sunlight that manage to hit it, avoiding the fluffy white clouds that are gathering above us, create strange patches of color that move all along the water. As if it were a painter not yet convinced about what color to use, the sun distributes small brushstrokes along the lake, first of an emerald blue, then decides to switch to greenish, and then returns to the original blue.

Having been able to admire this lake from virtually every angle, I can confirm to you that this is undoubtedly the position where you can enjoy the most scenic view ever.

Laghi Gemelli and Laghi Gemelli mountain hut

After a long photo session we decide to continue our descent along the trail, aiming now to reach the Laghi Gemelli mountain hut.

For the first 20 minutes, the trail remains quite steep and disconnected and it is evident how the rains and snow have repeatedly forced hikers to create alternative tracks to avoid some landslide areas. Therefore, continue carefully.

Having now reached the lake we join up with the CAI 216 trail and from here we continue practically level crossing the west shift. As I think is evident from the photos, there are very few beaches along the shores of the Laghi Gemelli that allow you to get to the water gradually and definitely more common are very steep beaches that plunge into the water with almost vertical rock jumps. Venturing into these areas is therefore not recommended and bathing is also prohibited (several signs indicate this). I therefore recommend that you limit yourself to observing the lake by staying on the trail and descend to the water only at the points where there are obvious tracks and beaches entering the water gently (the best spot is probably just past the dam).

However, this entire section of trail also gives numerous interesting photographic glimpses, probably not comparable to the viewpoint seen earlier, but still absolutely worthy of a break and a few shots.

About 2:00 from the start, by now approaching the dam, we make a small turn to the left and are immediately faced by the Laghi Gemelli hut structure, perched on a small grassy hill just beside the trail leading up the lake dam. The structure is quite large and offers several places to eat (indoor and outdoor) as well as several beds.

Oggi, all’esterno, vengono serviti svariati tipi di panini, torte e bevande ed è possibile sedersi su uno dei numerosi tavoli, oppure sfruttare gli ampi prati per fare un pic-nic. Noi ci siamo portati praticamente tutto da casa, ma decidiamo comunque di acquistare una fetta di torta e riempire le borracce dalla fontana esterna (gratuita).

For any information regarding the refuge, I invite you to view their official site: Twin Lakes Refuge

Ascent to the Laghi Gemelli Pass

After a long, relaxing break on the fields around the hut, we decide it is time to get back on the trail. The quickest way back to the parking lot is to retrace the outward route. If you have some time available, however, I strongly recommend that you lengthen the hike a bit and do the full loop around the lake and back up to the Laghi Gemelli Pass.

We opt for the second option and then head quickly to the top of the dam that closes the northern end of the large body of water. Before the construction of the dam this beautiful expanse of water was divided into two lakes, hence the name Laghi Gemelli (Twin Lakes). To this day the water basin is unique, although in times of severe drought it is still possible to clearly see the distinct shapes of the two lakes.

The short passage over the dam is truly spectacular as it allows one to get very close to the water and to enjoy a very central view of the entire lake. I am therefore forced to stop almost immediately to take a few shots.

Once past the dam we turn right, taking the CAI 216 trail. Turning left we could instead take a nice, relatively flat ride and reach Lake Colombo and then Lake Becco and Lake Marcio. This further section, however, would take us a long way from the starting point and is therefore a recommended variant only if you have a lot of time or if you climbed starting from Carona.

Trail 216 trail continues on the east side of the lake, never getting too close to the water, but without taking too much elevation either. It is therefore a relatively simple section and completely lacking in complicated sections, capable, however, of providing always new views of the lake at every turn.

We continue slowly so as not to miss any glimpses, until coming towards the end of the lake, here some streams plunging into the body of water create small waterfalls and beautiful grooves inside the rock wall behind us. I recommend carefulness only in a section at the juncture of a stream where you have to climb the wet rocks of the stream bed being careful not to slip, and then immediately return to the classic earthy trail.

Finally reaching the end of the lake we turn right (the 232 climbs to the left instead) and face a soft climb along a marshy section. Here we are faced with two options:

1. Turning right it is possible to close the lake loop and rejoin the 216, and then take trail 215 again, which climbs to the Mezzeno Pass.
2. Keeping to the left and climbing steeply along a rocky section, it is instead possible to cross trail 216 much earlier and ascend along it to reach the Laghi Gemelli Pass.

Being curious about the view of the lake from the Laghi Gemelli pass we opt for the second option and so we bend to the left and start climbing up steep rocky steps. The climb is by no means complicated, but after the long minutes spent walking practically flat this sharp change in gradient does something to our legs.

Within 10 minutes however we reach 216 and with another 10 minutes of climbing we arrive at the small cross that marks the exact spot where the Laghi Gemelli pass is located. The rocky, bare landscape is very similar to that already seen on the Mezzeno pass, since it is, however, a much less frequented area what is surprising is theabsolute silence of this area.

In the last few minutes of the ascent the sky has become quite cloudy and once on the pass thick clouds almost completely cover the view to the south, fortunately however to the north the sky is still totally clear and the view of the Laghi Gemelli is absolutely perfect, perhaps even better than this morning view. Despite the strong fresh wind I devote a few minutes for some shots and then quickly retrace our steps starting to descend back down to the lake.

Descent to the parking lot

To return along the route taken on the outward journey, fortunately, it is not necessary to descend back to the lake, but simply descend a few dozen meters from the pass and then take an unnumbered trail that leads to the Mezzeno Pass.

The trail, not very wide and mostly stony, continues halfway up the slope of the Western Mezzeno Peak and in about 30 minutes of easy up and downs leads to the wide open space of the Mezzeno Pass. Walking in an environment completely devoid of natural obstacles, one has the opportunity to admire the beautiful view of the Laghi Gemelli (Twin Lakes) all along the way, even being able to arrive at the point where one can admire the lake exactly from the center: from the Mezzeno Pass one is shifted slightly to the left with respect to the lake, while on the Laghi Gemelli Pass one is shifted more to the right.

Upon reaching the pass we immediately realize that the colors of the landscape are beginning to change. The late afternoon light begins to stretch the shadows, blurring the contrasts and tinging the clouds and mountain peaks around us with warm colors. Too bad we can't stay until sunset, with such a clear day it is sure to be spectacular.

To return to the parking lot we start down from the pass following exactly the path made this morning. We descend down the high rocky steps that lead to the Baita della Croce, cross the herd of sheep again (now moved a few hundred meters), reach the wide pastures next to the Baita delle Foppe, pass the wooded part next to the dry stream, and finally our feet step again on the asphalt road leading to the Mezzeno hut.

There is nono particular difference reported in walking the trail in reverse, I simply renew the invitation to take care along the steeper sections.

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Galleria fotografica – Trekking ai Laghi Gemelli dalla Baite di Mezzeno

All shots from this hike are also viewable in high resolution on my Facebook page: Photo gallery hike to Gemelli Lakes from Baite di Mezzeno Galleria fotografica escursione ai Laghi Gemelli da Baite di Mezzeno

Conclusioni e consigli – Escursione ai Laghi Gemelli dalla Baite di Mezzono

The proposed hike has no particularly technical or dangerous sections. However, the elevation gain of about 800 m and the approximately 2:00 for the one-way hike do not set it up as an easy hike.

The numerous rocky sections may hide some pitfalls if the trail is not approached with appropriate footwear and the right amount of attention. Rain or snow could also make some sections particularly slippery or difficult to hike. The bottom of the trail leading from the pass to the hut has evidently been greatly eroded by weathering, and it is not ruled out that in the future the route may be varied again due to minor collapses or landslides.

Qualora l’intero giro ad anello dovesse risultare troppo impegnativo si ricorda che, una volta giunti al rifugio, è fattibile tornare indietro lungo la strada dell’andata, evitando così il giro del lago e la salita la passo Laghi Gemelli.

Water along the trail

The only water source along the trail is the fountain near the Laghi Gemelli hut. I recommend using this application to quickly view all the fountains around your location: Review Mapy.cz - The Best App for Hiking (stefanopoma.it)

Recommended period

• Spring: Recommended use of snowshoes or crampons in case of ice or snow.
• Summer
• Fall: Recommended use of snowshoes or crampons in case of ice or snow.
• Winter: Carefully assess the feasibility of the hike.

Links and useful references

• Laghi Gemelli mountain hut: Rifugio Laghi Gemelli

PRO and CONS and Evaluation

Webcam near Laghi Gemelli

There is a webcam right near the Laghi Gemelli hut: Webcam Laghi Gemelli

I will however leave you the exact location of the place on Instagram: Link Twin Lakes. If you find recent posts or stories you will get a clearer picture of the weather conditions.

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Some of the photos you see in this article were taken and post-produced by @stefanodosselli (Instagram page).