Today we are in Piedmont, specifically within the Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero Natural Park, to do a very simple loop itinerary that will take us to discover the beautiful Lago delle Streghe, the small alpine village of Crampiolo and the beautiful meadowy expanse of the Devero Plain.
The alpine basin of Devero is located at an altitude of 1,600 m, in the northernmost part of the Val d'Ossala, practically on the border with Switzerland. All this in a truly picturesque landscape setting characterized by wide pastures, small in Walser-style wood and stone huts, crystal-clear streams, small alpine lakes, wide waterfalls cascading down the rocky mountain slopes, and, to top it all off, fantastic larch forests that cover the entire area and that in autumn are tinged with orange and red hues.
The Alpe can be visited virtually year-round, with landscapes and treks varying somewhat depending on the season and the presence of snow on the ground. The network of trails, however, is very dense and there are proposals for every type of hiker, ranging from simple walks that are practically flat, to hikes with very significant elevation gains that can take up to several hours to complete.
The trail described by this article is probably the easiest trail you will find in the entire Alpe Devero area. What is special about it, however, is that as it goes along it will take you past several trail markers and starting points of many other, far more complicated trails. In short, to tackle the vast majority of the Alpe Devero treks you will have to somehow walk along part of the trail described in this article, and then take the detour that interests you and thus continue along an alternative route.
Examples of other really scenic hikes that can be done in this area are (articles in preparation):
- Il lago Nero: Alpe Devero – Trekking lago NERO autunno 2024 (Traccia GPS)
- Il giro ad anello del lago Devero: Alpe Devero – Trekking autunnale dall’Alpe Devero all’Alpe della Valle – YouTube
- Il lago Pianboglio e l’Alpe Forno: Trekking Alpe Devero – Anello Alpe Forno e Alpe della Valle
Short description: Alpe Devero autumn trekking
The proposed trail is relatively easy and potentially doable by anyone. The elevation gain is minimal and the trail surface is always well-trodden (mule track for the first part and normal trail in the second part).
You start from one of the many pay parking lots at Alpe Devero and shortly reach the wide pasture of the plains.
Here you can make the complete tour of the plain, passing along the main road that connects the many huts in the area. Walking through the meadow area, one can already admire the main peaks of the alp and see the wide larch forest that separates us from the village of Crampiolo.
Having completed the loop tour and returned near the main village, we take a slightly uphill road that leads to Crampiolo (summer trail). You plunge deeper and deeper into the woods, tackling soft switchbacks on a dirt or cemented surface depending on the area.
In about 30 minutes you reach a plateau and continuing beside a stream you arrive at the small hamlet of Crampiolo. The road continues right between the huts, crosses the stream with a small bridge and completely passes the hamlet.
Past a small church you turn left along a second small wooden bridge and begin to turn back into a marshy area. Via a series of footbridges you pass the more wet areas and in about ten minutes you are finally on the banks of Witches' Lake.
A full tour of the lake is not possible, so you continue to its left along a fairly steep and narrow section of trail and soon reach the opposite shore. From here the trail continues for a few more minutes into the woods, then joins a wide mule track (winter trail).
The mule track leads to a group of huts and in about 30 minutes leads back to the Devero plain, from which the parking lot is reached again.
Per avere maggiori dettagli prosegui nella lettura…
Sommario: Trekking Alpe Devero in autunno – Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe
- Short description: Alpe Devero autumn trekking
- Sommario: Trekking Alpe Devero in autunno – Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe
- Map: Crampiolo and Lago delle Streghe trekking in autumn
- Dove Parcheggiare sull’Alpe Devero
- Inizio del trekking – Piana Alpe Devero
- Winter trail to Crampiolo
- Lago delle Streghe – Alpe Devero
- Return to the Devero plain
- Galleria fotografica – Trekking Alpe Devero Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe
- Conclusions and advice - Hike Alpe Devero Crampiolo and Witches Lake
- PRO and CONS and Evaluation
- Webcam on the Devero Plain
- Do you appreciate my work and want to support me?
- Where to follow me? Do you want to stay updated?
Dati tecnici – Alpe Devero in autunno, Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe
| DifficoltĂ | E – Escursionistico |
| Duration | 2:00 (A/R) |
| Ring tour | Sì |
| Length | 7.5 Km |
| Elevation gain | 200 m |
| Trail number | H98, H98A, H99 |
| Type | Trekking |
| Date | 13/10/2024 |
Map: Crampiolo and Lago delle Streghe trekking in autumn
Mappa dell’escursione: Crampiolo Trekking and Witches' Lake in autumn
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Best offline map app for trekking: Review Mapy.cz - The best app for trekking (stefanopoma.it)
Dove Parcheggiare sull’Alpe Devero
There are many parking places to reach Alpe Devero, but almost all of them charge a fee.
When you reach the locality of Goglio, take a paved road about 7km long that is quite steep and leads quickly to the plain. At a certain point you will encounter a bar displaying the updated prices of the various parking lots and where you will have to pick up a paper ticket. The bar is at about this location (https://maps.app.goo.gl/PYCMTQ6KARQZ9toq8) and as soon as you pass it all the parking lots will be metered.
Just before the barrier there are a few clearings and lay-bys where you can leave your car free and during the busiest periods it will certainly not be uncommon to find hikers leaving their cars in this location as well.
- Free parking before the barrier: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PVZWSJJkX18kvujr5
- Free parking further away: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nTTjpB3Scms71Xax7
Leaving your car here, however, you will be forced to add 2 km to your hike (about 50 minutes), to be hiked partly on asphalt and partly on a trail that cuts some hairpin bends.
In the summer period a bus service (to be booked by phone) also passes on the road, which might allow you to save them the drive up or avoid a piece of walking up the road, should you decide to park in one of the more distant parking lots. I leave below the link to the details about the service, take care of course to check that it is present in the period you decide to go.
Baceno municipality transportation (Prontobus service): Transportation - Municipality of Baceno
Continuing past the bar there will begin to be a variety of places where you can leave your car. The first ones encountered along the road will still oblige you to face a certain piece of road on foot, the last ones (Silos and Balmavalle), on the other hand, will be very close to the beginning of the hike. Depending on the period you choose and the influx of tourists, you can then park more or less close to the starting point.
I also report the possibility of booking a parking space at a cost of 5€ in the “Silos” parking lot only. All the details to manage the reservation and also the updated parking prices can be found on this site:Parking Alpe Devero - Area Di Parcheggio alpe Devero (deveropark.it)
Inizio del trekking – Piana Alpe Devero
Climbing towards mid-October, on a day where rains are expected in the early afternoon, we find virtually no one on the road and all the parking lots are completely free. So we decide to leave the car in the last available parking lot (Balmavalle).
Stepping out of the car, we are greeted by a dark landscape, with dark clouds skimming the larch trees and almost completely encompassing the highest peaks in the area. The ground is cold and wet from last night's rains and a slight cold breeze caresses our faces, making it necessary to put on fleece and neck warmers immediately.
As we climb back up the paved road we immediately encounter public restrooms and a cold water fountain where we can fill our water bottles. Soon the roadway inserts itself between a small group of stone houses and in a moment we find ourselves at the entrance to the Devero plain.
In front of us stretches a very wide plain of grass yellowed by the cold and cut in two by a small stream, to our left is the small village of the plain consisting of old stone and wooden huts, and in front of us vast dark mountains hidden almost entirely by low clouds
An absolute silence envelops us, broken only by the flow of the stream, and the whole area seems completely deserted. As we move along the edge of the plains, however, we begin to glimpse the first chimneys from which a faint smoke is coming out, the bright lights of some shelters and the menus displayed outside the few restaurants found in this area. Gradually the village comes to life and although the clouds create a very gloomy backdrop, the first rays of the sun shyly begin to hit the plateau here and there.
We decide not to head directly for Witches' Lake, but instead to take a quick ride across this plain reaching even the huts that can be seen on the other side of the pasture. We then begin to walk along the small road that connects the main group of dwellings, and here we begin to see the first open businesses. In fact, among the huts there is a small church, some apartments, picnic areas, a campsite, a small minimarket and some restaurants.
Past a small wooden bridge we pass the last hut and come to the vicinity of a camping area, from here the trail heads along the opposite edge of the plain, the exact point where the trail to Black Lake begins. Here we make a brief detour to a second group of huts (Piedemonte locality) at the exact moment when a light rain begins to soak our backpacks. From this point, on a clearer day, one should see very well the entirety of the plain and all the main peaks surrounding them. Today, unfortunately, you can see very little, but the dreary weather, the warm colors of the grass, and the orange larches in the distance still create a truly striking backdrop.
Continuing along the road, and having now reached the middle of the plain, we begin to return toward the starting point, crossing a couple more huts and the Cai Enrico Castiglioni refuge in Cantone. Here the winter trail that leads to the locality of Crampiolo comes off, it is a simple mule track immersed in the woods that can be easily walked even when there is snow. Wanting to do a loop tour, however, we decide to tackle the outward journey along the summer trail, then return along the winter trail. Since there is no snow on the ground there is almost no difference between the two alternatives and the advice is just to try both.
In winter, however, several signs clearly indicate the dangerousness of the summer trail, due to a greater gradient of the surrounding mountain slopes and a resulting definitely increased risk of avalanches. If you are undertaking this trek in the winter period, follow the signs and use only the winter trail.
Returning the direction of the first cluster of houses and skirting a stream we spot on the left a wide paved mule-track marked Crampiolo. We then decide to take this road.
Winter trail to Crampiolo
Continuing on the mule track we soon enter a dense forest of larch trees that, with their color-laden branches, seem to want to move over the trail, almost as if to brush past those passing by. In autumn time, this section is truly fantastic and the photographic views worthy of note are truly many.
The road continues slightly uphill (we have to do almost 200 m of elevation gain), the cold air of this day, however, does not make us sweat as much. As we reach the edge of the forest we begin to glimpse on our right an impetuous stream that at regular intervals generates spectacular water jumps. Of course I take a few shots of this beautiful scene, trying to frame the sinuous shapes of the water with the bright colors of the larch needles.
After about 30 minutes of walking the road finally flattens out and soon in the distance we begin to catch sight of the small alpine village of Crampiolo, with its completely renovated stone huts, small church and the stream running right next to the cluster of houses. As we approach, the trail leads to cross the entire hamlet and here we encounter 3 huts where we can stop to eat or possibly sleep and a dairy where you can buy various local products, including yogurt and cheese.
Over the years we have stopped at these two lodges and I feel I can recommend them:
- Locanda Punta Fizzi: https://www.locandapuntafizzi.it/
- La Baita. https://www.alpedevero.it/baita.html
The atmosphere of this place is truly magical and everywhere there is a sense of peace and tranquility (perhaps also thanks to the fact that there is hardly anyone there today). We stop on some wooden benches right next to the creek and rest for a few minutes watching the smoke coming out of the chimneys, the few hikers passing by and a group of bunnies grazing freely on the meadows. Behind us stretches also the beautiful summit of Pizzo Fizzi and Cervandone, the latter covered by a light dusting of snow, perhaps fallen just this night.
Resuming our walk, we head north, where the trail crosses the stream via a small bridge and where signs begin to mark the Codelago Dam about 20 minutes away (another possible trek in this area). Our trail, however, involves leaving the main trail and veering left along an unnumbered section that bites into a mostly marshy area.
Crossing the marshy area through a series of bridges and wooden footbridges we head into a forest and, after a bend to the left, find ourselves right on the north shore of Witches' Lake.
Lago delle Streghe – Alpe Devero
The pond is half-hidden by the larch forest, which covers it to the south and east, and by a rock wall that blocks its west shore. O north, on the other hand, stretches a small spread of grass from which it is possible to reach the sheet of water and a couple of erratic boulders that allow one to observe the pond from above.
The waters, of a splendid turquoise color, contrast perfectly with the now-dry grass and the beautiful orange foliage of the larches, creating a truly surreal landscape setting. Walking along its narrow shoreline, we stop several times to take a few photos, varying the position and consequently the reflections generated on the water slightly rippled by the wind.
The dimensions of the lake are really small and the area where it is possible to walk is even more limited, so after a few minutes we walk on its east shore to try to da observe it from a different position. The path here climbs a bit between rocks and roots and quickly gains us a few meters of elevation. Seen from above, the lake changes color again and its waters are tinged an even brighter blue, also allowing almost perfect views of the sandy bottom, littered with branches and logs that fell who knows how long ago.
The trail now quickly loses elevation and leads along the north shore of the lake, which is even smaller than the south shore and decidedly muddier because of a small stream that flows out of the body of water here. Paying attention to the numerous puddles, we then move back to the water and from here take more shots also catching a glimpse of some of the highest peaks surrounding the Devero Alp, such as the Cust peak and the Arbola peak.
Return to the Devero plain
Having completed the photos at the lake, we resume the trail, which climbs a little further into the forest, then loses a few meters of elevation quickly and joins a mule track leading to the Devero plain (winter trail).
Once on the dirt mule track, the continuation becomes decidedly smoother, with wide switchbacks and a slight, steady gradient. Walking narrowly between a stream and a dense forest, we get some glimpses of the surrounding mountains, covered with vegetation that has now turned reddish and striped with long and spectacular little waterfalls; here and there a few huts still stand and the forest is often interspersed with beautiful meadow clearings. The sun begins to peep through the clouds and along the higher peaks we also catch a glimpse of some snowfall, which helps to complete the fantastic color palette of this area.
In about thirty minutes we are once again in the presses of the CAI hut and soon our feet are back stomping on the road traveled this morning during the tour of the plain. The trail ends as we return toward the small group of huts and reach the parking lot.
Other autumn excursions
Foliage Alpe Devero – Migliori trekking sull’Alpe Devero in autunno
Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola L’autunno sulle Alpi è un periodo magico: gli aghi dei larici, cambiando…
Trekking Alpe Devero – Giro ad anello Alpe Forno e Alpe della Valle
Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi vi porto alla scoperta di uno dei trekking piĂą scenografici e…
Alpe Devero – Trekking lago NERO autunno 2024 (traccia GPS)
Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi torniamo in Piemonte, all’interno del Parco naturale dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe…
Galleria fotografica – Trekking Alpe Devero Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe
All shots from this outing can also be seen in high resolution on my Facebook page: Trekking Alpe Devero Crampiolo and Witches Lake
Conclusions and advice - Hike Alpe Devero Crampiolo and Witches Lake
The proposed trail is probably the easiest hike you can do on Alpe Devero. A trek that is suitable for everyone and relatively short, but capable of providing fantastic views along the main plain, in the village of Crampiolo and around the beautiful Witches' Lake.
The trail can be hiked in all seasons, although the colors typical of autumn contribute to making the whole landscape decidedly more interesting.
However many hikers also ascend this plain in winter time, the most caution is always recommended. Any hike in the winter environment must be carefully planned, the state of the snow must be assessed, and all appropriate equipment must be brought along. Do not follow the trail provided if snow and ice are present! If in doubt, I still recommend that you contact the local tourist office or one of the huts on the alp.
Water along the trail
There are different drinking fountains along the trail, in particular these are located in the first cluster of huts you will find on the alp and in the hamlet of Crampiolo. I recommend using this app to quickly view all the drinking fountains around your location: Review Mapy.cz - The Best App for Hiking (stefanopoma.it)
Recommended period
- Spring
- Summer
- Fall: Be careful in case of ice
- Winter: Assess whether snowshoes or crampons are needed and whether the trail is free of hazards
Links and useful references
- Alpe Devero website: Alpe Devero
- Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero Park Information: Parco dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe Devero: Contatti (parks.it)
- VisitOssola tourist information: Uffici turistici in Val d’Ossola per la tua vacanza | VisitOssola
- Rifugio Enrico Castiglioni CAI: Rifugio Castiglioni | Alpe Devero
- Casa Fontana: Casa Fontana Devero
- Locanda Punta Fizzi: https://www.locandapuntafizzi.it/
- Agriturismo alpe Crampiolo: http://www.agriturismoalpecrampiolo.it/
- La Baita. https://www.alpedevero.it/baita.html
PRO and CONS and Evaluation
đź‘ŤPro:
- Easy trail
- Spectacular in autumn
- Several interesting views
đź‘ŽContro:
- None
Rating
| Rating | 3.5/5 |
| Signage | 4/5 |
| DifficoltĂ | 1/5 |
| Landscape | 4/5 |
Webcam on the Devero Plain
There is a webcam on the Alpe Devero plain: webcam
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