Today I am taking you on a discovery of one of the most scenic and spectacular treks in Alpe Devero, an experience that becomes even more evocative when tackled in the autumn period. We are in the heart of the Natural Park of Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero, in Piedmont, and the hike starts from the parking lots of Piana del Devero, then goes up to Crampiolo, reaches the enchanting Codelago Dam and continues to Alpe Forno Inferiore**. The return trip takes place at high altitude, passing through Alpe della Valle and then descending to the village of Crampiolo.

During the approximately six-hour hike, the landscape changes constantly, providing truly striking views: from vast golden larch forests to large man-made lakes, passing imposing waterfalls plunging forcefully down almost vertical rock walls, to wide alpine meadows and marshy areas. All this is further embellished by a fantastic backdrop of sharp laces, which at this time of year are tinged with the early snow.

The trail is almost always wide and well-marked, but some rather steep stretches and the overall length of over 20 km make this hike suitable only for those who are well trained and accustomed to long mountain hikes. Consideration must also be given to the possible presence of wet and slippery areas, as well as an elevation of almost 900 meters, which add additional effort to the trail.

On the Devero Alps there is a rich network of trails suitable for all needs and all seasons. In fact, the trail proposed in this article can be easily modified by including alternative sections, it can be shortened by taking roads that lead back to the valley floor more quickly, or it can also simply be integrated with other hikes, perhaps by deciding to stay on the alp for several days (as we did)

Below you will find a list of other hikes that can be done on the Alpe Devero in the fall:

• The tour of the Devero plain and the Witches' Lake: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/trekking-alpe-devero-in-autunno/
• The tour of the Devero Plain and Witches' Lake: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/trekking-alpe-devero-in-autunno/

Short Description: Loop tour Devero Lake, Pianboglio Lake, Alpe Forno and Alpe della Valle.

The starting point for this long loop tour is on the Devero plain, just beyond the paved road where the last parking lots are located.

After a quick tour on the plain to observe the characteristic huts, take track H98 that leads to the small hamlet of Crampiolo.

Upon reaching the small cluster of houses, keep to the H98 trail and in about 20 minutes reach the east shore of Lake Devero (Codelago). From this point on, the trail becomes flatter and continues alongside the vast artificial lake.

Giunti quasi all’estremità nord del lago si inizia a salire rapidamente fino a raggiungere l’alpe Canaleggio, per poi proseguire quasi in piano lungo una zona prativa.

Deviating to the left you can now move to admire from above the Pianboglio Lake. Several trails intertwine here and it is even possible to lose several meters of elevation to reach the shores of the lake.

Back on your feet, you again take the H98 trail, which becomes decidedly steep in this section. After a series of long switchbacks you arrive near a stream and some huts, marking the arrival at the lower Forno Alp.

From here take trail H18, which remains at high elevation and begins to return toward the valley floor passing through multiple marshy areas, vast meadows and mountain lakes.

On reaching the Sella alp, the trail bends sharply to the right and begins to descend along a rocky gully, flanking a stream. Continuing halfway up the hillside inside a larch forest, you finally reach the alpe della Valle.

Taking H14 at this point would allow you to rejoin the trail that skirts the lake, taking trail H18 instead keeps you at altitude and continues the loop tour. The trail faces some ups and downs and plunges through numerous marshy areas, wooded sections and vast meadows used for grazing.

Upon reaching Alpe Sangiatto, you turn right and begin the descent along an obvious mule track (alternatively, you can take trail H16). The two trails rejoin just before the hamlet of Crampiolo and from this point on simply retrace the route already taken at the beginning of the itinerary.

Sommario: Trekking Alpe Devero – Anello Alpe Forno e lago Pianboglio

Dati tecnici – Escursione Alpe Devero: anello Alpe Forno e lago Pianboglio

Map: Trekking Alpe Devero

Hiking Map: Trekking Alpe Devero - Lake Pianboglio Alpe Forno loop

Best offline map app for trekking: Review Mapy.cz - The best app for trekking (stefanopoma.it)

Dove parcheggiare all’alpe Devero

Spending two days on Alpe Devero we start facing this hike a bit advantaged: in fact, we are already at the borgo di Crampiolo and we spent the night at the Locanda Punta Fizzi

Il trekking descritto è comunque fattibile anche in giornata (purché siate allenati) quindi prima di partire vediamo di spiegare rapidamente come siamo arrivati a Crampiolo.

There are many parking places to reach Alpe Devero, but almost all of them charge a fee.

When you reach the locality of Goglio, take a paved road about 7km long that is quite steep and leads quickly to the plain. At a certain point you will encounter a bar displaying the updated prices of the various parking lots and where you will have to pick up a paper ticket. The bar is at about this location (https://maps.app.goo.gl/PYCMTQ6KARQZ9toq8) and as soon as you pass it all the parking lots will be metered.

Just before the barrier there are a few clearings and lay-bys where you can leave your car free and during the busiest periods it will certainly not be uncommon to find hikers leaving their cars in this location as well.

• Free parking before the barrier: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PVZWSJJkX18kvujr5
• Free parking further away: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nTTjpB3Scms71Xax7

Leaving your car here, however, you will be forced to add 2 km to your hike (about 50 minutes), to be hiked partly on asphalt and partly on a trail that cuts some hairpin bends.

In the summer period a bus service (to be booked by phone) also passes on the road, which might allow you to save them the drive up or avoid a piece of walking up the road, should you decide to park in one of the more distant parking lots. I leave below the link to the details about the service, take care of course to check that it is present in the period you decide to go.

Baceno municipality transportation (Prontobus service): Transportation - Municipality of Baceno

Continuing past the bar there will begin to be a variety of places where you can leave your car. The first ones encountered along the road will still oblige you to face a certain piece of road on foot, the last ones (Silos and Balmavalle), on the other hand, will be very close to the beginning of the hike. Depending on the period you choose and the influx of tourists, you can then park more or less close to the starting point.

I also report the possibility of booking a parking space at a cost of 5€ in the “Silos” parking lot only. All the details to manage the reservation and also the updated parking prices can be found on this site:Parking Alpe Devero - Area Di Parcheggio alpe Devero (deveropark.it)

Devero plain and village of Crampiolo.

When we arrived on the Devero Plain on the first day, we did not immediately take the road to do the trail described in this article, but preferred to go around the plain and reach Black Lake. The hike is described here: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/alpe-devero-trekking-lago-nero-in-autunno/

Wanting to immediately get going to Crampiolo one would have to take the H98 (summer) or H98A (winter) trail. Both trails are very easy and in about 30 minutes will allow you to reach the village of Crampiolo.

If you would like to read a more detailed description of this section, complete with deviation to Witches Lake, I invite you to view this article: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/trekking-alpe-devero-in-autunno/

Great! having clarified how to get to the alp by car or public transportation and how to get to the exact spot where we started this hike all we have to do is leave.

The beautiful Devero Lake in autumn (Codelago)

Last night the **weather deteriorated drastically**: incessant rain beat down on the alp all night. Today the **wake is set for 7:00 a.m.**, but a quick glance out the window confirms that the clouds seem to have no intention of thinning out. So I decide to take a quick walk through the narrow streets of the hamlet, then return to the hut and treat myself to a hearty breakfast, perfect for facing the day. Around 8:00 a.m., the rain seems to be starting to taper off and the forecast promises a slight improvement in the afternoon, so we decide not to let it bother us: we put on our boots, cover ourselves with a waterproof jacket and set off. Following **path H98** we pass the small hamlet of Crampiolo and then turn left. Even though it is Sunday the rather uncertain weather and light rain must have **discouraged most of the hikers**, the area is in fact almost completely deserted and along the trail we do not pass anyone. We begin to ascend on a **simple mule track** that cuts through a beautiful larch forest with soft switchbacks. The weather is absolutely perfect, and all the **chomes are now tinged with beautiful orange** and red tones, in the distance, however, a few rocky peaks partially covered with snow can be glimpsed among the thick clouds. The contrast is absolutely stunning, too bad only that the clouds completely prevent the sun from further lighting up the colors of the alp. Continuing our ascent we reach a small dam and then veer right and continue practically level on an increasingly wide mule track. As we stroll along a **carpet of red needles** and squeezed between the golden foliage of the larches soon our gaze is caught by a hint of blue. In fact, among the vegetation we begin to catch a glimpse of **Lago Devero** (or also called Codelago). The view is still not incredible, we are at low altitude and the forest covers large sections of the lake, but despite this I find myself stopping many times to **attempt a few shots**.

So I decide to take a quick walk through the narrow streets of the hamlet, then return to the hut and treat myself to a hearty breakfast, perfect for facing the day.

Around 8:00 a.m., the rain seems to be starting to taper off and the forecast promises a slight improvement in the afternoon, so we decide not to let it bother us: we put on our boots, cover ourselves with a waterproof jacket and set off.

Following path H98 we pass the small hamlet of Crampiolo and then turn left. Even though it is Sunday the rather uncertain weather and light rain must have discouraged most of the hikers, the area is in fact almost completely deserted and along the trail we do not pass anyone.

We begin to ascend on a simple mule track that cuts through a beautiful larch forest with soft switchbacks. The weather is absolutely perfect, and all the chomes are now tinged with beautiful orange and red tones, in the distance, however, a few rocky peaks partially covered with snow can be glimpsed among the thick clouds. The contrast is absolutely stunning, too bad only that the clouds completely prevent the sun from further lighting up the colors of the alp.

Continuando la nostra salita raggiungiamo una piccola diga per poi deviare a destra e continuare praticamente in piano su una mulattiera sempre più larga.

As we stroll along a carpet of red needles and squeezed between the golden foliage of the larches soon our gaze is caught by a hint of blue. In fact, among the vegetation we begin to catch a glimpse of Lago Devero (or also called Codelago). The view is still not incredible, we are at low altitude and the forest covers large sections of the lake, but despite this I find myself stopping many times to attempt a few shots.

La veduta dell’alpe Canaleccio

Between pauses, ever-changing glimpses of the lake and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, especially the majestic Pizzo Fizzi, we continue along the trail, proceeding at a leisurely pace.

• the trees in some places thin out a bit and with just one glance it is possible to catch the lake almost in its entirety,
• in altre aree è invece possibile uscire leggermente dal tracciato per spostarsi in zone prative decisamente panoramiche dove è possibile vedere con chiarezza l’ampia diga che chiude lo specchio d’acqua e le montagne che lo sovrastano.

The context is truly spectacular for a photographer and the rare moments when a little light manages to filter through the clouds only embellish the panorama even more, charging some sections of the forest or mountains with color.

Arriving almost at the end of the lake, we cross the deviation that would allow us to make the complete tour of the lake: turning left we take in fact an unnumbered path that moves toward the coast and bypasses the entire northern part of the lake. Our goal, however, is not this, so we continue to keep to the wide mule track pointing toward the Canaleccio Alp.

Just as the trail begins to get steeper, a frigid air begins to blow in from the north, accompanied by the return of persistent rain. We pull out our waterproof jackets again, cover our backpacks, and continue the climb.

With a couple of pretty steep turnings** and facing just in the direction of the wind we gain several meters in elevation and bring us near a large alpine hut: we have arrived at the Canaleccio alpine pasture.

The cows have already been back in the valley for a while and now the structure is completely closed, turning around we notice, however, a possible interesting panoramic view. We then deviate from the trail to reach the small knoll located right next to the alp. Reaching its summit, a magnificent view opens up before us of the lower part of Devero Lake, the dam, the beautiful meadows passed during the ascent and the chain of snow-capped mountains that close the Devero Alp.

Improvvisamente, il sole fa capolino tra le nuvole, illuminando i prati e parte del bosco. Approfitto dei pochi minuti di luce per scattare alcune foto, ma una folata di vento gelido ci riporta bruscamente alla realtà, annunciando l’ennesimo scroscio di pioggia che ci fa rabbrividire.

Arrival at Lake Pianboglio

Past the alp, the trail returns almost level, crossing a wide meadow framed by a gentle knoll on the left and a majestic rocky rise on the right. In front of us rises the Punta d'Arbola (3325 m), whose summit is almost entirely shrouded in a dark layer of clouds , which seem to thicken more and more.

As we walk, it seems impossible to leave the bad weather behind us: on the contrary, we have the feeling that we are going right into the rain and icy wind.

Shortly the H98 trail becomes paved and begins to climb along the wall to our right, before we continue however we spot a faint trail on the meadows to our left and decide to follow it. After a short bend to the left we find ourselves on a rise completely overgrown with small rhododendron bushes and from opens up a splendid view of Lake Piamboglio.

The artificial water mirror, although smaller than Devero Lake, is certainly no less impressive. The larch trees give way here to small shrubs and vast meadows of grass in orange and reddish tones. The marshy shores of the lake create a unique color contrast when viewed from above, with the intense colors of the wet grass blending harmoniously with the deep blue of the water. Complementing this somber and melancholy picture are the towering walls of dark rock that frame the entire area, crisscrossed by long rivulets of water and small waterfalls that slide between the rocks before plunging into the lake.

On this short section of the trail I get lost taking multiple photographs, trying to capture slightly different angles and views.

Continuing on it would be possible to join trail H002 and thus reach the shores of the lake, being already a bit behind schedule we prefer, however, to retrace our steps and continue the ascent along trail H98.

Lower Alpe Forno

The mule track, from this point on, becomes noticably steeper and, in places, slippery due to the rain that continues to fall. However, what makes the climb less tiring are the ever-new glimpses that open up to Lake Piamboglio and, once we reach a sufficiently high altitude, also to Lake Devero.

With the last effort, we overcome the last stretch of altitude difference and join a stream. Here, low clouds almost completely obscure the view of the surrounding mountains; the grass is now almost completely dyed orange, while small streams rush past, avoiding the few stone huts that dot this plateau.

The initial idea is to stop for a break, so we decide to move toward the huts, trying to shelter at least a little from the rain. As was the case with the Canaleccio Alp, the alpine pasture has been emptied and cleared for several days now. Fortunately, we manage to shelter against the walls of one of the structures, finding minimal shelter under the roof.

After quickly eating a piece of bread and some chocolate, I begin to walk onto the plateau where the alpine meadow stands, admiring the bare landscape that is completely wet from the rain. Looking at the path we will have to start on, however, we begin to see glimmers of sunshine hitting the ground and the clouds, previously decidedly thick and gloomy, seem to be starting to thin out a bit.

Confident that the weather will improve somewhat we then decide to set out again, taking the H18 trail.

Ritorno in quota passando per l’alpe della Valle

The trail from this point on becomes essentially flat and thanks to some wooden footbridges and small bridges begins to cross marshy areas, vast pastures and small alpine lakes. The rain-laden clouds finally stop following us, and after a few minutes we begin to be struck by the very first rays of sunshine, which charge the grass of the pastures with beautiful orange tones and the numerous bodies of water that we find ourselves circumventing with deep blues.

The landscape improves further when, suddenly, a splendid view opens up of the Valley Peak (2667 m) in front of us and, to our right, the Albrunhorn (2885 m). Almost suddenly, aided by the sunshine, we seem to have entered a new world, where the imposing rock faces, sprayed with snow, are reflected in the numerous small lakes, creating an almost surreal atmosphere.

Passeggiando sullo stretto sentiero e facendo rapide deviazioni sull’erba mi perdo in mille composizioni fotografiche differenti: mi concentro sul dettaglio di un monte parzialmente coperto dalle nuvole, per poi passare ad un riflesso su un laghetto quasi immobile, finendo per scattare anche ampie panoramiche per cercare di cogliere per intero il lago più grande di questo altopiano.

The trail continues without difficulty until it reaches location Alpe la Satta, where it veers to the right, losing several meters of elevation. Before facing the steep descent, however, I notice a flat space next to some old ruins. We quickly leave the marked trail and reach the old stone structures, then continue just beyond until we reach the edge of this rise. The view from this position is extraordinary: in front of us stretches the southern part of Lake Devero, now tinged a deep blue by the sun illuminating its shores. On the left, the deep blue of the lake blends with the orange of the low-lying forests, while in the distance the main peaks of the area are clearly distinguishable. I pause for several minutes to look for the best composition, also aided by the clouds that, partially hiding the sun, continue to change the colors and contrasting plays of this view.

The long photo session over, we retrace our steps to face the long stony descent ahead of us. The trail is not particularly complicated or exposed, but the presence of many smooth and wet rocks requires sure-footedness and great care. Quickly overcoming the rock gully, we return to walking halfway up, plunging into the larch forest we had passed through this morning.

Il sole ci avvolge completamente, incendiando di colori l’intero bosco e iniziando a regalarci un piacevole tepore. Finalmente, posso togliere il pile e proseguire l’escursione in maglietta.

After finishing the short section through the forest, we find ourselves in a large meadow clearing called Alpe della Valle, here we have two options:

• Deviate to the right along trail H14 and rejoin in this way the trail that runs along the lake we faced this morning
• Continue on trail H18 and descend several kilometers later, near Crampiolo

The first option is definitely the shortest, but having time we decide to go straight ahead, continuing to walk on the H18. The trail is not dissimilar to the midslope section walked so far: we walk through vast meadows deviating between rhododendron bushes and marshy areas, always accompanied by the beautiful view of Punta d'Arbola and Pizzo Fizzi.

Passing a couple of alpine swamps we reach a small pond near the Sangiatto Alp and here we begin the descent along a simple dirt mule track. We could also take the H16 trail, but after the several hours of walking we much prefer the convenience of the road, which in about 30 minutes takes us back to Crampiolo.

Ritorno a Crampiolo e al parcheggio dell’Alpe Devero

Back through the streets of the stone hamlet we take a short break along the benches set up right next to the stream, admiring the huts and the faint smoke coming out of the chimneys.

The bulk of the elevation gain is now done and now all that remains is to return to the main Devero Alp plain and then the parking lot. To do this you can take either the H98 (summer) or the H98A (winter) trail. If you have time and still some energy in your legs, I can't help but recommend that you also go through the small Witches Lake, a trail described in this article: Trekking Alpe Devero - Witches Lake 2024 (GPX free)

Qualunque sia la vostra scelta in poco meno di 1 ora sarete nuovamente sull’ampio pascolo dell’Alpe Devero e in pochi passi raggiungerete i parcheggi che si trovano sulla strada asfaltata.

Spot fotografici – I migliori spot fotografici dell’escursione sull’Alpe Devero

Il trekking, sviluppandosi per molti chilometri, è letteralmente disseminato di molteplici aree dal particolare interesse fotografico. I colori autunnale inoltre, come ampiamente sottolineato, non fanno altro che impreziosire ulteriormente il paesaggio caricandolo di contrasti e colori altrimenti impossibili in altri periodi dell’anno.

Wanting to try to make a list of the best areas where you can take a a photo I report the following:

• Il piccolo borgo di Crampiolo ammirato dall’alto di una delle numerose collinette che lo circondano.
• The many views of Lake Devero that can be admired from virtually the entire stretch of the H98 trail that runs along the lake
• La veduta sul lago Devero che si può ammirare dall’alpe Canaleccio
• Il lago Piamboglio ammirato dall’alto, rimanendo nei pressi del sentiero H98
• Il sentiero H18 tra l’alpe Forno inferiore e l’alpe la Satta è disseminato di piccoli laghetti alpini, aree paludose e splendide vedute sulle montagne circostanti
• Il canalone roccioso scendendo dall’alpe la Satta con la bella vista sulla sezione sud del lago Devero
• In autunno è inoltre ammirabile il fenomeno del foliage praticamente su tutta la piana del Devero e sulle sponde del lago Devero, rimanendo tra i boschi a bassa quota.

Other autumn excursions

Foliage Alpe Devero – Migliori trekking sull’Alpe Devero in autunno

December 23, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola L’autunno sulle Alpi è un periodo magico: gli aghi dei larici, cambiando…

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Alpe Devero – Trekking lago NERO autunno 2024 (traccia GPS)

November 24, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi torniamo in Piemonte, all’interno del Parco naturale dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe…

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Trekking Alpe Devero – Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe in Autunno (GPX gratis)

November 5, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi ci troviamo in Piemonte, in particolare all’interno del Parco naturale dell’Alpe…

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Galleria fotografica – Trekking alpe Devero e lago Pianboglio

All shots from this outing can also be seen in high resolution on my Facebook page: Photo Gallery - Alpe devero ring lake Pianboglio Alpe Forno

Conclusioni e consigli – Escursione Alpe Devero, lago Piamboglio e Alpe Forno

The proposed trail is very scenic and always follows a well beaten and marked trail. However, the not inconsiderable elevation gain combined with the total length of the hike do not make it suitable for all walkers.

There is of course the possibility of splitting the hike by staying in Crampiolo, thus reducing the total hiking time by about 1h. Alternatively, it is also possible to choose to not do the full loop, going back along the same road as on the way out or closing the loop earlier near Alpe della Valle. It is therefore possible to “simplify” the proposed trail, although in any case (even in its reduced form) it is certainly not classifiable as an easy trail suitable for everyone.

In case of a hike in winter environment I invite you instead to evaluate the snowpack conditions, the practicability of the road and any dangers in the area. This is not a hike that is suitable for snow due to the many steep and potentially avalanche-prone sections.

Water along the trail

There are different drinking fountains along the trail, in particular these are located in the first cluster of huts you will find on the alp and in the hamlet of Crampiolo. I recommend using this app to quickly view all the drinking fountains around your location: Review Mapy.cz - The Best App for Hiking (stefanopoma.it)

Recommended period

• Spring: watch out for the possible presence of ice.
• Summer
• Fall: beware of the possible presence of ice.
• Winter: Not recommended due to in the many steep and avalanche-prone sections.

Links and useful references

• Alpe Devero website: Alpe Devero
• Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero Park Information: Parco dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe Devero: Contatti (parks.it)
• VisitOssola tourist information: Uffici turistici in Val d’Ossola per la tua vacanza | VisitOssola
• Rifugio Enrico Castiglioni CAI: Rifugio Castiglioni | Alpe Devero
• Casa Fontana: Casa Fontana Devero
• Locanda Punta Fizzi: https://www.locandapuntafizzi.it/
• Agriturismo alpe Crampiolo: http://www.agriturismoalpecrampiolo.it/
• La Baita. https://www.alpedevero.it/baita.html

PRO and CONS and Evaluation

Webcam sull’Alpe Devero

There is a webcam on the Alpe Devero plain: Webcam Alpe Devero

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