The autumn in the Alps is a magical time: the needles of the larches, changing color, ignite entire forests with orange tones, the grass takes on a reddish hue, and the highest peaks are sprayed white by the first snowfall. A magnificent combination of tones and contrasts that at other times of the year would be unthinkable.

As a photographer, I watch this phenomenon with great interest and, over the years, have had the opportunity to capture several really striking landscapes between September and mid-November.

Among the most fascinating areas in Piedmont to admire the foliage, there is definitely the Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero nature park** and especially the larch forests that stretch all along the Devero plain and that, as they climb in altitude, are then gradually replaced by beautiful pastures dotted with rhododendron bushes.

This area is extremely rich in terms of landscape, with the possibility of walking among ancient stone hamlets, reaching huge reservoirs, standing in the presence of imposing rocky peaks and visiting high-altitude areas dotted with alpine lakes and marshy areas. These are all places of great charm at any time of year, but in autumn they are completely transformed, offering spectacular compositions to those who have the patience to seek them out and admire them with the right light conditions.

In this article, which is constantly being updated, I want to report on some of the best treks for viewing foliage on Alpe Devero. Each trek has been described in more detail on my blog or on my socials, and by following the links you will find, you will then have a way to further explore the proposed hike.

Summary: Foliage Alpe Devero best treks.

Lago delle Streghe: between pastures and stone hamlets

Probably the most classic and easy hike in the whole of Alpe Devero. You start in the wide Devero plain, where you can take a quick tour to admire the various clusters of stone dwellings and the vast pastures. Already from here it is possible to catch the beauty of autumn in all its splendor, with dense colorful forests almost completely framing the entire plain.

Having concluded the tour of the flat area, one takes path H98 or H98A and begins to slowly ascend along a simple mule track that plunges deeper and deeper into the forest. The trail passes the last groups of huts and then takes you near a frothy stream.

After about 30 minutes of walking you enter a vast plateau with the small hamlet of Crampiolo at its center. Walking through the streets of the hamlet, squeezed between the stream and the small stone dwellings, it feels like going back in time.

After a brief pause in the village, you resume the path, deviating to the left and beginning to cross a marshy area made accessible by a series of wooden footbridges and small bridges.

A few more minutes of flat path and you are finally on the shores of Witches Lake, with its deep blue color blending perfectly with the shores laden with orange from the larch trees and the sunset light.

Lo spazio attorno allo specchio d’acqua è abbastanza limitato, ma è comunque possibile girare un po’ sulle sponde per poi aggirare il laghetto lungo la sua sponda sud, tramite un sentiero abbastanza stretto che prende qualche metro di quota consentendo di ammirare lo specchio d’acqua anche dall’alto.

Il ritorno avviene lungo lo stesso tratto dell’andata (H98 o H98A) e in poche decine di minuti di cammino ci si trova nuovamente sui pascoli della piana del Devero.

Full article: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/trekking-alpe-devero-in-autunno/

Map: Map hike to Witches' Lake in autumn

Black Lake: simple hike going up from the Devero Plain.

Questa seconda escursione è leggermente più complicata, sia per il dislivello che per la durata complessiva del tragitto.

Again, you start from the Devero Plain and begin to hike the ring of the plain until you reach Piedemonte locality. From here you take the H11 trail, which climbs steeply through larch forests.

The trail does not provide very wide panoramic views, but the views that can be admired from this section of the forest are nonetheless many: as you continue, you can encounter two imposing waterfalls, a couple of huts and several sections where the trail approaches a small stream. All this takes place under a canopy of orange needles that, pushed by the wind, tend to fall to the ground, carpeting the ground and giving it a very distinctive orange hue.

When you reach Alpe Misanco you continue to the right, facing an ascent that becomes steeper and steeper before returning to level ground again near the detour with the H11B trail.

From this point on, you continue on a disconnected path, making your way through dense undergrowth characterized by rhododendrons and blueberry bushes, until you come out just near the dark shores of Black Lake.

The body of water, because of the rocks in its bottom, has a very dark shade of blue, which contrasts sharply with the many orange larch trees growing right next to its banks.

Concluso il breve giro attorno al lago, si può tornare verso l’Alpe Devero percorrendo lo stesso tratto dell’andata.

Full article: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/alpe-devero-trekking-lago-nero-in-autunno/

Map: Black Lake hike map

Lake Pianboglio and Lower Alpe Forno loop tour.

The third proposed hike is undoubtedly the longest and most complex, but also the one most recommended if you want to admire as many different landscape settings as possible: starting from the bel Devero Lake, all the way to the small alpine lakes near the Alpe Forno and of course passing through the beautiful Pianboglio basin.

The start is always set on the Devero plain or alternatively in the village of Crampiolo (should you have decided to spend the night here). Take path H98 and climb up along the woods around the hamlet until you gain a splendid view of Lake Devero (Codelago).

The trail now becomes flat, and views of the lake and Pizzo Fizzi are wasted, until a small waterfall is reached.

Here you begin to climb, reaching Alpe Canaleccio and then the short detour to Lake Pianboglio. The fall colors completely transform the banks of this body of water, dyeing grass and shrubs orange and red and creating an incredible color contrast with the dark blue water.

Trail H98 now continues steeply uphill to Alpe Forno Inferiore. The climb is not the easiest because of the elevation gain, but the view of the two lakes below only gets better as you gain meters of elevation.

Upon reaching the alp, the landscape changes completely, the forest now gives way completely to wide orange meadows, all around are towering rocky mountains, and the trail zigzags on, deviating between small alpine lakes and marshy areas.

In this section of the trail the landscape views are many, including numerous new views of Devero Lake below.

When you reach the Alpe della Valle, continue straight along trail H18, gradually losing several meters of elevation, until you reach the Alpe Sangiatto. Here you turn right to rejoin the convenient mule track that connects the Devero plain with the village of Crampiolo.

Full article: https://stefanopoma.it/trekking/trekking-alpe-devero-anello/

Map: Map ring tour Lake Pianboglio and Alpe Forno on the Devero Alp

Other autumn excursions

Trekking Alpe Devero – Giro ad anello Alpe Forno e Alpe della Valle

December 23, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi vi porto alla scoperta di uno dei trekking più scenografici e…

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Alpe Devero – Trekking lago NERO autunno 2024 (traccia GPS)

November 24, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi torniamo in Piemonte, all’interno del Parco naturale dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe…

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Trekking Alpe Devero – Crampiolo e lago delle Streghe in Autunno (GPX gratis)

November 5, 2024 No Comments

Piemonte Autunno Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Oggi ci troviamo in Piemonte, in particolare all’interno del Parco naturale dell’Alpe…

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Links and useful references

• Alpe Devero website: Alpe Devero
• Alpe Veglia and Alpe Devero Park Information: Parco dell’Alpe Veglia e dell’Alpe Devero: Contatti (parks.it)
• VisitOssola tourist information: Uffici turistici in Val d’Ossola per la tua vacanza | VisitOssola
• Rifugio Enrico Castiglioni CAI: Rifugio Castiglioni | Alpe Devero
• Casa Fontana: Casa Fontana Devero
• Locanda Punta Fizzi: https://www.locandapuntafizzi.it/
• Agriturismo alpe Crampiolo: http://www.agriturismoalpecrampiolo.it/
• La Baita. https://www.alpedevero.it/baita.html

Webcam sull’Alpe Devero

There is a webcam on the Alpe Devero plain: Webcam Alpe Devero

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Some of the photos you see in this article were taken and post-produced by @stefanodosselli (Instagram page).